The overarching influence is Italian cooking, border-hopping to France, but most dishes have a Japanese stamp on their passport -- specifically Kyoto.

The Tokyo outpost of Swedish chef Marcus Samuelsson's much-lauded New York restaurant exudes a sleek, refined sophistication that perfectly reflects his signature Modern Scandinavian cuisine.

Italy may be the basis of Harada's cuisine but the inspiration and interpretation are entirely his own. The ingredients are superb, most of them sourced here in Japan. The flavors are subtle and presentation exquisite.

Standard-issue Asahi Superdry is on tap, but they also have Corona, and Bali Hai shipped in from West Java, served without glasses to be swigged from the bottle. They do a range of sweet tropical cocktails, plus a very acceptable gin and tonic. They ...

Owner-chef Hiroshi Nakajima is a man who likes to cook for people who like to eat -- especially those who appreciate the subtleties of orthodox French cuisine.

The man in charge of the open kitchen is Fumio Yonezawa. The chef, who spent several years at the New York main restaurant, executes the light Asian accents of the Jean-Georges signature dishes with considerable aplomb.

Jaafar is a native of Fez, where his parents own a majestic ancient restaurant. And while the food he serves cannot compare to the subtle, sophisticated cuisine you find inside the historic walls of that ancient city, his is still a very welcome facsimile ...

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