Indoor grilling isn’t a new concept, but in the pandemic era, it can make the difference between a restaurant surviving or closing its doors.

Good ventilation is turning into a secret weapon for yakiniku, or grilled meat, restaurants, where customers cook raw ingredients such as cuts of beef shoulder, pork belly and vegetables at the table.

While many dining establishments around the globe remain shuttered or offer takeout only, establishments in Japan have remained open because the government doesn’t have the legal means to force closures. Before the government implemented a state of emergency last month, it was even encouraging people to eat out. Even so, the nation saw a record number of restaurant bankruptcies in 2020, according to Teikoku Databank.