Summer music festivals aim to bring the good times back

For the first time in the 2020s, Japan’s summer music festival calendar looks normal.

During the first few years of the COVID-19 pandemic, large-scale gatherings were postponed or canceled, delivering a major blow to the country’s music industry. And when events started making their return, something felt off. Hampered by lower capacities and rules like “no cheering,” the communal thrills such festivals usually bring were missing. That, though, was a necessity — a health precaution as well as a way to keep the media eager to spot any festival slipups at bay.

Thankfully, the happy vibes — and a sense of freedom — are back in 2023, with relaxed regulations and dozens of regional and genre-specific live-music events happening over the next three months. It’s safe to call this the true return of summer music festivals, with a surplus of options to fill up the season.

There’s no better place to start than with the four cornerstones of the music industry. Fuji Rock Festival (July 28-30, Naeba Ski Resort, Niigata Prefecture) will set the tone for the summer by placing the emphasis for this year’s event squarely on having a good time. The theme is “Feel Great at Fuji Rock!” — a pivot from the implied theme of the past few years: “Please don’t get us singled out on the nightly news.” Rules prohibiting festival-goers from cheering loudly or drinking alcohol are gone, while the fan-favorite Crystal Palace — known for hosting all-night ragers — returns after a three-year hiatus.

It’s a welcome return to form for Fuji Rock, down to a lineup that attempts to balance established rock acts with headliners of tomorrow. Veteran bands The Strokes and Foo Fighters top the first two nights, while American pop singer Lizzo closes out the festival. Throughout the three-day event, organizer Smash has mixed in names that’ll inspire nostalgia (Weezer, Yeah Yeah Yeahs, Alanis Morissette) with rising artists (100gecs, Vaundy, Black Midi).

Meanwhile, Summer Sonic (Aug. 19-20, held concurrently in Chiba and Osaka) offers more sonic variety. The headliners are Brit-pop mainstays Blur and Los Angeles rapper and Pulitzer Prize-winner Kendrick Lamar, but going deeper into the lineup reveals a wide range of acts, from domestic heavyweights such as Sekai No Owari and Yoasobi to the indie-rock kiss-offs of England’s Wet Leg to the mall-goth dramatics of Evanescence. There’s a special focus on Asian performers, featuring rising K-pop names like NewJeans, Taiwanese city pop stalwarts Sunset Rollercoaster and Thai MC Milli earning prominent space.

Fans of Japanese music will see the full-force return of Rock in Japan Festival (Aug. 5-6 and 11-13, Soga Sports Park, Chiba), the country’s largest music festival. Crammed with all shades of domestic sounds, the event’s lineup is particularly rich for those hoping to get a sense of what the sonic trends of the 2020s are shaping up to be, with a range of performances including young rockers Macaroni Empitsu, heart-on-sleeve songwriter Yuuri and internet-age oddballs Atarashiii Gakko!! Up north, Hokkaido’s Rising Sun Rock Festival (Aug. 11-12, Ishikari, Hokkaido) will round out the “big four,” with familiar rock names being joined by eclectic pop acts (yama), electronic producers (Stuts) and singer/songwriters (Ayano Kaneko).

Those looking for something a bit more genre-specific have plenty of choices, too. Fans of harder rock can head to the Satanic Carnival (June 17-18, Makuhari Messe, Chiba). Organized by pioneering Japanese punk label Pizza of Death, this year’s edition features a wide swath of punk, metal and heavy bands from all corners of the country. Those looking for something a little more laid back can head out to Yokohama Reggae Sai (June 24-25, Red Brick Park, Yokohama), which will feature the nation’s most prominent reggae and dancehall acts as well as “the future of Yokohama rap” on a special stage.

Dance fans can head out to Niigata Prefecture for Rural (July 15-17, Naeba Green Land), which will feature a mix of Japanese and international DJs — plus electronic artists, including Tokyo experimental legend Phew — playing out in the lush mountains. Another celebrated artist, pop tinkerer Shugo Tokumaru, presents the 10th anniversary edition of his label’s festival, Tonofon Festival (July 8, Tokorozawa Aviation Memorial Park, Saitama Prefecture), featuring an appropriate mix of sunny-day rock and twee-leaning experimentation.

Part of the fun of schlepping out to a festival is the chance to take in music among natural backdrops — the verdant forests of Fuji Rock and the openness of Rising Sun come to mind. The most scenic of all these summer parties, however, may be Corona Sunsets Festival (July 15-16, Toyosaki Seaside Park, Okinawa), which will host a mix of Japanese bands on the rise (chilldspot and Durdn) and DJs (U.K.’s DJ Harvey) against a gorgeous view of the Pacific Ocean.

For a more immersive experience, South Korean hip-hop event Waterbomb might be worth a visit. The festival will hit Osaka, Nagoya and Tokyo throughout July (July 15-16, Osaka; July 22-23, Nagoya ; July 29-30, Tokyo), offering sets by Korean rappers like Jay Park and K-pop groups such as A-Teez. Be prepared to get drenched, though. The festival boasts water gun fights, pool parties and water cannons on stage alongside all the musical talent. Don’t dwell on the environmental impact — just appreciate the chance to cool down in the summer.

Far more relaxed is Tokyo Jazz (Aug. 25, Tokyo Metropolitan Theater). This year, the event finds the Tokyo Philharmonic Orchestra joined by guests such as keyboardist Bigyuki and saxophonist Patrick Bartley to help add a jazzier dimension to their classical sound. Rapper Awich will also appear as a vocalist, rounding out a special performance not often seen at Tokyo Jazz.

As the summer draws to a close, music fans may be looking for the best way to finish the season on a high note. Well, how about something messy but fun in its own hedonistic way? Ultra Japan (Sept. 16-17, Odaiba Ultra Park, Tokyo) stands as the nation’s premier EDM gathering and remains a force in the live music scene. It’s on the rowdier end of the festival spectrum, but that seems fitting for summer 2023, when it’s finally possible to go all out and let loose again. Nothing says “normalcy” like the chance for some season-ending debauchery.