Italy may be the basis of Harada's cuisine but the inspiration and interpretation are entirely his own. The ingredients are superb, most of them sourced here in Japan. The flavors are subtle and presentation exquisite.

The sign outside says "Welcome to the Small World of Eating Paradise." And for such modest premises, they offer a surprisingly wide menu, from simple starters such as gyoza pot-stickers and Singapore-style smoked duck through a good range of stir-fries and seafood dishes.

There are those who make regular pilgrimages here expressly to revisit the antipasti misti. The primi piatti are also seriously good, especially their own hand-crafted pasta. The potato gnocchi (with a sauce, perhaps, of broccoli and homemade sausage) are not to be missed.

At dinner, Watanabe offers a considerable a la carte menu that focuses strongly on fresh local seafood, sourced directly from the fishing port of Sajima just down the coast, as well as Hayama-gyu, a signature breed of beef reared in the nearby hills. He ...

At the far end of the street, Meri Principessa offers budget Italian drinks and snacks in its ground-floor standing bar (currently nicely open-fronted), with seats for 26 in the compact basement. Its diminutive wood-fired oven produces highly acceptable pizzas from as little as ¥500 ...

Trattoria della Lanterna Magica is the quintessential Tokyo neighborhood trattoria. Not just because it is always bustling and friendly, serves excellent, unpretentious cucina and does so at prices that are always affordable, but because it is far enough from the beaten track that it ...

Review excerpt: At Ebiu's Sel Sal Sale, chef Masahiro Hamaguchi prepares a one-size-fits-all omakase dinner with Italian-inspired cuisine.

Review excerpt: The H in Test Kitchen H is for Hiromi Yamada, the chef who, more than anyone, spearheaded the Italian cuisine boom that engulfed Japan in the 1990s.

Review excerpt: The cooking at Tokyo Fratelli Paradiso is good without being overly complex or flashy. As at the main restaurant in Sydney, the chefs share the same passion for seasonal produce and the vegetables are sourced from organic farmers.

Review excerpt: The pasta dishes at Latteria Bebe are inventive, with seasonal variations such as the linguine with hotaru-ika (firefly squid) and fukinoto (wild butterbur buds).

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