This is absolutely as you would expect, since Kamozou is the third in the growing stable of sake-specialist taverns run by Noriharu Nozaki — among them the self-named Nozaki in Shinbashi. Not that you will find him behind the counter at Kamozou these days. If ...

Much more than the bar snacks implied in its name, Grill Bar turns out an extensive range of food good enough to match any bistro in town. There are four chefs (versus just one sommelier and one waiter) and it's clear they're not a ...

Kemuri is a place for casual nibbling, eating and whiling away the evening, rather than for formal, full-scale dining. As the name indicates -- kemuri is Japanese for smoke -- the menu revolves around an extensive selection of smoked delicacies, all of them prepared ...

Long before tachinomi standing-only bars became a citywide phenomenon, Maru led the way. Such was demand that it soon opened a dining room upstairs, with a couple of dozen seats and a charcoal grill in the center. Apart from the emphasis on wine, it ...

Sophisticated but not snooty, contemporary but still rooted in the age-old drinking culture of the izakaya, Sake Bistro W gives Japan's traditional tipple a chic sheen that brings it totally up to date.

This friendly diner/restaurant, which opened back in July, occupies the bottom two floors of a new building, with racks of farm-grown vegetables arrayed outside the front door, each box identified by the name of the prefecture and the farmer who supplied it.

Kin-no-saru looks and feels well above the average, but it's actually quite affordable. It's also very approachable, thanks to the crew of young waiters, who are friendly and well informed about the menu. For that reason it seems to attract a varied demographic, not ...

For such a modest setting, they offer a remarkable number of wines: 50 different kinds, mostly French but with the New World also well represented -- none of them priced over 5,000 yen and the cheapest a mere 1,600 yen for the bottle.

As always with Shunju, the quality is superb: premium ingredients, their provenance listed, and selected to reflect the season, cooked perfectly with no artificial seasonings and arranged beautifully on fine vessels of ceramic, glass and lacquer. Here at Tsugihagi, though, there is greater emphasis ...

Here, as at the main restaurant, the specialty of the house is camarones cocidos -- good-sized shrimp (the kind known in Japanese as ama-ebi) simply blanch-boiled in their shells, but so perfectly you don't even need the wedge of lemon that's served with them.

It would be hard to find a better example in Tokyo of the genre best described as "designer washoku." Too often, after bitter experience, we are tempted to use that epithet as a sneering pejorative. Not so here. Higashi-yama is actually the creation of ...

Here is a place that shows it's possible to take the concept of an "ethnic" izakaya and make it interesting and relevant. The food is above average and served promptly. The wait staff is young, but friendly, well-trained and always on the ball.

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