Wana Tedome doesn't mess with any ordinary meat. "Deer, not cow. Boar, not pig," the illuminated street-level sign outside proclaims in Japanese. "Grilled venison, grilled boar and grilled pheasant."

Welcome to where the wild things are.

To emphasize the point, that same sign shows a stag's head in silhouette. Slide open the door and you find the real thing: a handsome 10-point hart gazing down at you from high up on the wall. This is no mere decoration. It is advertising the main component of the menu.