Though Roppongi is party central for most foreigners, Shibuya has, in the course of the last 10 years or so, emerged as a brave new challenger for the title. Even foreigners have come around to the upstart, which was originally put on the party map by a new breed of then young and restless Japanese revelers, the Shibu Kaji -- or Shibuya Casuals -- as they were dubbed by the local press.

But what most people do not know is that Nishi Azabu has all the while been home to Tokyo's alternative party crowd -- people who prefer to have a drink and hear themselves speak. Some bars never even advertise, mostly to protect their privacy and to nurture the loyal patronage of the sometimes glamorous and famous patrons who frequent them. You have to be taken there, which makes it feel special. Others, like 328 (which just celebrated its 28th anniversary) have, since the beginning, simply been headquarters for hardcore inner-city drinkers. Nishi Azabu is hip -- Roppongi, for tourists.

Muse, a large, rambling bar complex located right near the Nishi Azabu Crossing, is a fusion of both. Unlike any other bar in Tokyo, it is huge, the size of a barn -- or several barns, if you count the second basement. This, in and of itself, is why many foreigners make the short trek down the hill from Roppongi Station on the main road to Shibuya, as do many locals. Space is such a luxury in Japan, especially in bars. Being able to order a drink on a Saturday night without having to sidle through a wall of sweaty, heaving bodies can be refreshing.

The first basement level is a maze of bar counters and cozy corners. You can lean against the bar and interact, or snuggle into a couch and party undisturbed. It's up to you. You can also shoot some pool or play a round of darts, if you're game. And if you are, then the lower level is for you, especially if you like ping pong. Yes, ping pong -- two huge rooms with a table in each. And another bar. Even when the upstairs gets packed, which it does, you can always find a place to get away.

Muse is equally popular as a retreat, a place to meet people or just somewhere to junk out on games. The vibe inside is remarkably congenial -- the bouncers at the door are there to make sure of it. Free entry for women on Saturday night ensures plenty of eye-candy for the boys (as the photographs on this page will attest), though of course the girls wouldn't go there if they didn't like what they saw. And there is plenty for them to choose from -- young foreign bankers in polo shirts or slick young locals in shiny shirts and shades.

Muse is a bit like Gas Panic with a more upmarket clientele (I don't recall seeing any hip-hop slouches in oversize T-shirts and chains.). Or Motown with a younger crowd. And the music is better than at both -- I even heard some Bob Marley. And, yes, they have a large screen TV, several, in fact. So, if you're looking for a place where you will still be able to breathe while watching the World Cup soccer finals, this is the spot.

Muse; 4-1-1-B1F, Nishi Azabu, Minato-ku. www.muse-web.com/

328 -- 28 down, 300 to go . . .

328 is a legend. It just turned 28, and, if we could all live forever, I am sure it would party on for another 300 years. It was one of the only truly cool and fun places in Tokyo back in the pre-bubble days. If anything, it is rocking stronger than ever.

The bar's anniversary party earlier this month was packed, but you don't need a lot of other people present to enjoy the place. The staff are fantastic -- the most genuine and warm crew in town -- and music lovers, one and all. DJs spin on the weekends, but the master and the lads take turns on the decks during the week. You won't hear club mixes here -- just tunes, straight up. That's the way, ah huh, ah huh, I like it. And you will too.