The first minutes in Tanzania's famed Ngorongoro crater were neatly summed up by a small boy.

"It looks just like England."

An embarrassed silence suffused the Land Rover. All aboard had paid a considerable sum to be here (Tanzania safari tourism is high quality but a great deal more expensive than in neighboring Kenya). All aboard had arrived expecting what conservationist professor Bernhard Grzimek described as "a wonder of the world." And not just Grzimek -- everyone raves about the Ngorongoro crater.