One reason why it feels so friendly is because it's a family business. Chef Suleyman Ozeri, a native of Izmir, is the man in charge of the glowing doner grill and the cooking stove, the heart and soul of the operation.
Its scope is far wider than just the Maghreb: The entire span of the Mediterranean is covered, from the Levant to the Atlantic, via Turkey, Greece, Egypt and the Pays d'Oc.
Istanbul, in the nighttime back streets of Shinjuku-Sanchome, is the oldest and best established, slick and a little impersonal, its decor crammed with photos and exotic baubles, making it easily accessible to first-time visitors.
Ankara, up behind Mark City in Shibuya, is busy and serious, with little time for people unfamiliar with the territory. Izmir, the least known of the three, not only lies further from the mainstream -- in Asagaya, out on the Chuo Line west from ...
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