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Were it not for the name on the illuminated sign hanging at the entrance, you would be hard pressed to identify An Di as a Vietnamese restaurant. Inside or out, there are no other clues — no flags or tourist posters, no signs advertising Saigon’s ubiquitous 333 beer — as what kind of food it serves.

In fact, the first thing you see as you walk through the door is a large new wine refrigerator. This is not by chance or due to lack of space elsewhere on the premises. Wine lies at the core of An Di’s identity.

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