The last time I went to Naoshima was in June of 2001, when it was just an island with a museum, a hotel and some tents. It was called Bunkamura (culture village). The museum was Mr. Fukutake's own private art collection of mostly modern art. In 2004 came Claude, Walter and James (Monet, De Maria, and Turrell) whose works were put on permanent display, attracting hoards of people from all over Japan to this small island in the Inland Sea.

Although most people get to Naoshima by ferry, I have only been there by sailboat. I will never forget my first time sailing up to the island that time in 2001.

I didn't have much sailing experience then and my crew and I were not very good at reading sea maps. When we passed under the Seto Ohashi bridge heading east and saw all those islands in front of us, we knew Naoshima had to be one of them. But which one?