I had a mission in Chiang Mai. Many years ago I bought a reclining black lacquer Burmese Buddha there. It had been gilded but much of the gold had been worn off, probably by the hands of the faithful seeking some special blessing. It has a remarkable face. It changes expression as the viewer moves even as little as a few inches, with the body, too, appearing to readjust its position.

It is small wonder, then, that comparing the figure when it arrived several months later with the photo I took at the shop, I felt that somehow I had received a very similar, but still very different Buddha. Many -- more expert in Buddhist arts than I -- agreed, and I wrote to the woman who sold it to me asking how one so similar and yet so different could have been sent. I was assured there had never been but one; she could offer no explanation. Later, after I had taken more photos, I realized my mistake. I wanted to go back, show the pictures and explain why I had originally doubted the authenticity of the artwork.

I had heard people talking recently about a wonderful resort hotel outside of Chiang Mai, an incredible dream world of pointy-roofed, Thai-style villas with lavish use of teak; wandering paths leading to health and sports facilities past tropical greenery and all kinds of blooming things; and even rice paddies with farmers and water buffalo (the harvest is given to needy hill tribes). For the eager kind, there are bicycles, exercise rooms, tennis courts, pools and nearby golf courses.

Other types, whom I happily join, prefer such amenities as hour-long foot massages and outdoor dining with magnificent views and imaginative menus prepared by gifted chefs. Tours can be arranged to more distant destinations featuring hill tribe villages, elephant riding and river trips on bamboo rafts. This was once the 13th-century Lanna Kingdom, and there are temples and ruins that testify to its historic importance.

Suddenly, it all came together. I won a plane ticket and had a chance to visit Chiang Mai and the resort. You will want to remember the name: Four Seasons-managed Regent Resort Chiang Mai at Mae Rim Valley. If you know the Four Seasons Hotel here in Tokyo, you can imagine the surrounding beauty if you have a whole valley to work with instead of "only" an extensive garden area with streams, a waterfall and wandering paths, a miracle itself in almost-downtown Tokyo.

The pleasure began as I arrived at night after a half-hour drive from the airport. The grounds were lighted mostly by torches although through the greenery I glimpsed high, crossed-beam roofs with spires and domes gently outlined by discreetly placed spotlights. After a hospitable Thai welcome, I was driven by a nonpolluting electric minivan to my large suite in a four-unit pavilion, each seemingly a separate villa. Japanese guests must appreciate the very private garden view from the bath, and so, indeed, did I. Later there was dinner on an outdoor terrace. Blessedly, there was no loud recorded music, just the gentle sounds of nature, a chorus of frogs and flowing, splashing water.

I remembered Chiang Mai as a country town. Today it is a modern city, Thailand's second largest. The night market is still there with stalls and shops and bargains, but gone are the piles of beautiful but inexpensive hand-woven cottons I had hoped to buy. Progress counts many costs. Still, it is easy to spend an evening there, bargaining for souvenirs and treasures which now include northern hill tribe costumes and crafts.

The concierge at the Regent found Ms. Aree, who sold me the Buddha. She now has her own large store with a wide selection of arts, crafts, antiques, jewelry and furnishings. In the garden, craftsmen make rattanware including some furniture of striking design and all kinds of traditional umbrellas covered in paper, fabric or plastic in an extensive range of colors, the large ones are ideal for gardens and all are very affordable. She remembered. The Buddha, she believes, was made by a strangely gifted artist. Visit her shop when you go to Chiang Mai, as surely you will some day.