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Japan Times
LIFE / Food & Drink / TOKYO FOOD FILE
Jun 30, 2006

Kurkku Kitchen: Great food, naturally

Natural farming, environmental sustainability, conscious lifestyles -- these are the mantras of the dyed-in-the-wool, back-to-the-earth ecological movement. They're also becoming buzzwords at Tokyo restaurants.
Japan Times
LIFE / Food & Drink / TOKYO FOOD FILE
Mar 17, 2006

It's time to get healthy

The mirror does not lie, and nor do the bathroom scales. All that rich, stick-to-the-ribs winter food has inevitably stuck to the waistline too, leaving us sluggish and out of balance. So now, with the ume (plum) in bloom and spring nigh, it seems like the right moment to take stock, lighten up the diet and shed a few kilos. Time to get back in balance.
LIFE / Food & Drink / TOKYO FOOD FILE
Feb 10, 2006

Shaping 'neo-classic' cuisine

It is a measure of Tokyo's hidden depths that many of its top restaurants remain so little known, at least among the city's expatriate population. That is certainly the case with L'Osier. Founded in 1973, it established its heavyweight reputation under French master chef Jacques Borie, winning a devoted...
Japan Times
LIFE / Food & Drink / TOKYO FOOD FILE
Jan 20, 2006

Cicada: That Mediterranean buzz

Readers of this column over the past seven years will be well aware of our abiding love of the food and wine of the western Mediterranean. Anyone who has eaten his or her way around Spain will understand. From the seafood of Galicia and the Basque coast to the sherry, tapas and superb hams of Andalucia,...
Japan Times
LIFE / Food & Drink / TOKYO FOOD FILE
Dec 2, 2005

Gordon Ramsay at Conrad Tokyo: Haute cuisine with altitude

Aside from some road-laying and cosmetic work, the bristling high-rises of the Shiodome complex are complete. It's a brutal, soulless landscape on an inhuman scale. There's only one thing that can tempt us along those sterile walkways and mazelike underpasses: the promise of fine dining. And no one does...
Japan Times
LIFE / Food & Drink / TOKYO FOOD FILE
Nov 18, 2005

Banrekiryukodo: Simple alchemy works wonders

The ikebana alcove in the clattering, bustling train station; the Shinto shrine on the roof of a high-rise office building; a bonsai pine outside a garish love hotel: Tokyo throws up juxtapositions of this unlikely sort at every turn. So it comes as no surprise whatsoever to find contemporary ryori at...
Japan Times
LIFE / Food & Drink / TOKYO FOOD FILE
Nov 4, 2005

Shunju Tsugihagi: Perfection in the mix

No restaurants in Tokyo have done more to shape the aesthetic of contemporary Japanese dining than the Shunju group. Over the past 20 years, their trademark synthesis of cutting-edge design -- the work of Shunju's founder and creative genius, Takashi Sugimoto -- with a cosmopolitan take on traditional...
Japan Times
LIFE / Food & Drink / TOKYO FOOD FILE
Oct 21, 2005

Les Vinum: Wine and BBQ in wafu style

Wine with Japanese cuisine? We've never been convinced. In theory, all that seafood should find the perfect match with a crisp Chablis, Condrieu or unoaked Chardonnay. But when sip comes to gulp, we'll always prefer a ginjo or yamahai sake to accompany our sashimi, sukiyaki or tempura.
Japan Times
LIFE / Food & Drink / TOKYO FOOD FILE
Oct 7, 2005

Kumazawa Brewing Company: Brews worth the trip

Drink locally, eat bountifully: It's a rule of thumb that has served us very well over the years in Japan. Places that specialize in good nihonshu invariably serve food of similar quality. So it would stand to reason that, if a brewer of fine jizake were to open its own restaurant, then the results would...
Japan Times
LIFE / Food & Drink / TOKYO FOOD FILE
Sep 2, 2005

Brasserie Bec: Bet you wished you lived nearby

Good food, cooked well and touched with creativity; a comfortable setting, attentive service and honest prices. Whether it's haute cuisine or a ramen shack, those are our criteria for satisfaction. Location counts for nothing: Often the best value for money is to be found well away from the bright lights,...
Japan Times
LIFE / Food & Drink / TOKYO FOOD FILE
Aug 19, 2005

Shimauta Paradise, Phuket Aroyna Tabeta: Urban oases for summertime dining

Trapped in Tokyo through another steamy summer and, not surprisingly, we are dreaming of south-sea islands. Sun-dappled beaches of pure white sand lapped by the calm, azure ocean; the wind soughing through fields of sugar cane; and a plate of stewed pigs' ears and goat sashimi washed down with high-octane...
Japan Times
LIFE / Food & Drink / TOKYO FOOD FILE
Jul 15, 2005

Hatsuogawa: The days of eel are upon us

Tradition is comforting, no matter whose culture it is. We eat plum pudding for Christmas, mochi at New Year and moon cakes to mark the Autumn Festival. We throw beans at setsubun and, on Valentines' Day, we will gladly accept as much chocolate as comes our way.
Japan Times
LIFE / Food & Drink / TOKYO FOOD FILE
May 13, 2005

A Tokyo hotline to Bangkok

Hyakunincho, Tokyo's most polyglot district, is only a two-minute train ride from the heart of Shinjuku, but it almost feels like leaving the country. In the 1980s, when Southeast Asian food was still a novelty in other parts of town, this was where we came to forage, lured by the exotic perfume of lemongrass,...
Japan Times
LIFE / Food & Drink / TOKYO FOOD FILE
Apr 15, 2005

Matsuba Chaya: Buddha, soba and the great outdoors

Spring is here, the sap is rising, buds are budding and the Food File's fancy turns to . . . noodles? Out in Chofu, heartland of Tokyo's bed-town suburbia?
Japan Times
LIFE / Food & Drink / TOKYO FOOD FILE
Apr 1, 2005

Osteria La Luna Rossa: Moon shines brightly in Naka-Meguro

La Luna Rossa is one of those excellent little places that fly under the critical radar, avoiding the hyperventilation of the vernacular media but generating a deep, slow-sure buzz of appreciation among the culinary cognoscenti. In the parlance of the showbiz world, it's a sleeper.
Japan Times
LIFE / Food & Drink / TOKYO FOOD FILE
Mar 18, 2005

Sosaibo: Zen to warm the soul

Zen is austere and meditative. It is the practice of ascetic self-denial on the path to serenity and satori. It is the cult of monochrome and minimalism. Above all, it is serious -- and so is its food, the vegetarian tradition known as shojin ryori.
Japan Times
LIFE / Food & Drink / TOKYO FOOD FILE
Mar 4, 2005

Casa Paradis Barcelona: Tapas and paella in Shibuya

Much like Pavlov's poor, sad, salivating dogs, we can never pass a restaurant without going inside if there's a paella pan, some empty sherry bottles and a red-and-yellow flag outside. This weakness for Spanish food often results in disappointment: mediocre tapas and the music of The Gypsy Kings can...
Japan Times
LIFE / Food & Drink / TOKYO FOOD FILE
Feb 18, 2005

Restaurant t.r: A 't.r iffic' little diner

One of Tokyo's unique pleasures is being able to eat out in restaurants that are no bigger -- and often considerably smaller -- than your own living room. There are thousands of places around the city with kitchens the size of closets and counters that seat less than a dozen, but which nonetheless serve...
Japan Times
LIFE / Food & Drink / TOKYO FOOD FILE
Dec 17, 2004

Raising a glass to the Food File's faves

The goose is getting fat and so too is your humble correspondent, after another year of gobbling his way through some of the best dining that Tokyo has to offer -- not to mention a sizable dollop of the mediocre and worse. But it's not just gluttony that keeps the Food File going, nor merely devotion...
Japan Times
LIFE / Food & Drink / TOKYO FOOD FILE
Aug 20, 2004

Chilling out with noodles in summertime

These are days of heat and tribulation. For 40 days and 40 nights we sweltered and sweated through that record heat wave -- and there's plenty more of the summer yet to come. Not surprisingly, given these almost biblical weather conditions, our main source of solace and sustenance has been noodles --...
Japan Times
LIFE / Food & Drink / TOKYO FOOD FILE
Jul 2, 2004

Pot-Bouille's recipe for success: just keep it simple

Stop me if you've heard this one before: Parisian banlieu decor; no-frills wooden tables in cozy proximity; Pernod and Lillet bottles on the shelf behind the bar; the obligatory espresso machine; a short wine list; and a menu of brasserie staples chalked on a blackboard brought round to your table by...
LIFE / Food & Drink / TOKYO FOOD FILE
May 21, 2004

Vin Chou: Bistro browsing for Francophiles about town

Vin Chou subscribes to the contemporary ethos that morsels of high-quality, charcoal-grilled chicken on skewers go just as well with good wine as with fine sake. It's also quite comfortable using herbs, tomatoes and balsamico. But what makes this place so special is the quality of its yakitori ingredients....
Japan Times
LIFE / Food & Drink / TOKYO FOOD FILE
Apr 2, 2004

Higashi-yama: 'Designer washoku' for all seasons

Cometh the season, as the saying almost goes, cometh the man. And every year when the hanami season rolls around, you are likely to find us strolling down by the Meguro River in Naka-Meguro. It's a favorite spot for us, not just for the superb cherry blossom that lines both banks, but also because there...
Japan Times
LIFE / Food & Drink / TOKYO FOOD FILE
Feb 20, 2004

Yakitori for gourmets: a 1-2-3 guide

There was a time when yakitori shops were hole-in-the-wall grills, often under railway tracks, where cheapness made up for the lack of sophistication and rotgut sake or rocket-fuel shochu were the libations of choice. Much has changed, though, and "upmarket yakitori" no longer seems a contradiction in...
Japan Times
LIFE / Food & Drink / TOKYO FOOD FILE
Jan 16, 2004

Layer up against the cold with chanko nabe

With winter in control and showing little sign of abating, it's time to search out warmth and sustenance of the kind that only nabemono can provide. And no heartier form of the genre exists than chanko, the hotpot that has nourished generations of sumo wrestlers.
Japan Times
LIFE / Food & Drink / TOKYO FOOD FILE
Dec 19, 2003

'Tis the season to eat, drink -- and be opinionated

'Tis the season again when the Food File anoints itself as demiurge, handing out gongs and accolades, winnowing the worthy from the weak, and pronouncing unashamedly subjective opinions about the past 12 months. So here's our annual toast to all those restaurants and stores -- most of them new, but also...
Japan Times
LIFE / Food & Drink / TOKYO FOOD FILE
Sep 26, 2003

Tama: Pour a libation to summer's end at a stylish washoku hideaway

At last that spell of late summer heat has broken. At last we can generate something approximating an appetite. And -- all praise to the gods of zymurgy -- at last the first of the fresh-season sake is starting to arrive on the shelves and menus of our favorite ryoriya (restaurants) and izakaya.
Japan Times
LIFE / Food & Drink / TOKYO FOOD FILE
Jun 6, 2003

Mikawa: the golden temple of tempura

Probably our greatest complaint about Roppongi Hills (apart from its very size) is its bland uniformity. The entire complex looks and feels as devoid of character as an upscale shopping mall. Everywhere, that is, except Mikawa.
Japan Times
LIFE / Food & Drink / TOKYO FOOD FILE
May 16, 2003

Bombay Club: At last, Indian food for kulcha vultures

It's been a very long time -- thankfully -- since we could count the number of places in Tokyo serving real Indian food on the fingers of one hand. These days we don't have to travel too far to find a reasonably authentic curry. In fact, it's a measure of how fortunate we are that our main complaint...
Japan Times
LIFE / Food & Drink / TOKYO FOOD FILE
May 9, 2003

Le Jardin: The fine art of museum dining

What could be more cultured and civilized -- indeed more pleasurable -- than to spend the morning strolling around a good museum and then, with legs aching and aesthetic senses saturated, to adjourn from exhibition hall to adjoining restaurant for a leisurely lunch? Especially when the cuisine is sophisticated...

Longform

Once smoky, male-dominated spaces, today's net cafes, like Kaikatsu Club, are working to make their operations more attractive to women customers.
The second life of Japan's net cafes