All self-respecting soba restaurants offer tempura. Few do so with as much finesse as you find here. Ask for the seasonal tempura plate and you will first be served a couple of chi-ayu (young sweet fish), which moments earlier were swimming in a small tank at one end of the counter. These will be followed by juicy chunks of hamo (pike conger), a summer specialty in western Japan, plus morsels of maitake mushroom, eggplant and other vegetables. Start with new-harvest edamame soy beans or broad beans charcoal-grilled in their soft, jade-green pods. Follow this with an order of sashimi, or perhaps a serving of namero (coarsely chopped white-meat fish mixed with miso and scallions, much like the piscine equivalent of a steak tartare.