Review excerpt: Those who know the territory will probably flip straight to the a la carte section of the menu to pick out their favorites, starting with the grilled packages of onion stuffed with pork and wrapped in crisp, savory vine leaves, or the charcoal-grilled seafood. But to get a deep immersion in the cuisine, try the “Full Greek” set menu (¥4,800 at lunch; ¥5,500 at dinner).
It opens, as you’d expect, with some light nibbles, including mixed olives, creamy taramosalata dip, pita bread and a classic Greek salad. Then comes one of The Apollo’s highlights: A substantial wedge of Kefalograviera, a sheep and goat’s milk cheese, is cooked until it is oozing soft, then seasoned with honey, oregano and lemon juice. Served bubbling-hot in a small cast-iron saganaki pan, this is a remarkable combination of sweet, sour and intensely rich cheese flavors.