For over a decade now, this simple, uncluttered second-floor dining room on the fringe of Higashi Ginza has been a go-to for honest South Indian cooking. At lunch, you pick from a selection of quick curries and set meals served on gleaming metal trays. But it is the dinner menu that really transports me. I like to start with a dosa pancake, either plain or masala (stuffed with spicy potatoes). A serving of vada (deep-fried chickpea croquettes) goes well with an Indian lager — the Haywards 5000 packs a punch at 8 percent alcohol. Then, if I’m with friends, we order a few curries and eat to satiation.