There are three main ramen options on the menu at Yashichi: shoyu (soy sauce), shio (salt) or tsukemen, where the noodles are served separately. Unusually, no alcohol is served. On a recent visit we sampled the shoyu and the salt varieties as well as hetameshi, a bowl of rice topped with cuttings of chashu, pork belly in a rich, sweet marinade. Common to both the shoyu and shio ramen is a chicken base, which I could have sworn was actually tonkatsu (pork). With the shio ramen, the broth retained its creamy color, rich in umami from the hours spent boiling chicken feet, cartilage and skin. In the shoyu ramen, Yashichi are perhaps a little too generous with the shiso (perilla), but you can ask for it without.