BANDA ACEH, Aceh -- On a lonely stretch of road in the midst of a distant war, Joy Lee Sadler, a 57-year-old nurse from Iowa, did what she has done all her life.

"I did what I had to: I slugged the Indonesian commander in the face," she said last week from police headquarters in Banda Aceh, the capital city of Aceh province, where she's been held for the past three months. "I'm a peacemaker -- help and heal -- but you mess with my friend and you'll find a tiger."

Her friend, this time, and traveling companion through this long-rebellious province was Lesley McCulloch, a combative 40-year-old Scottish-born Australian academic and well-known critic of Indonesian rule here.