In the minimalist tasting room at Leaves Coffee Roasters in Tokyo’s Sumida Ward, my host leans in close to a cup of Panama Geisha, inhaling deeply.
"When it's hot, you'll find aromatic compounds like jasmine," she explains, guiding me through the tasting of Lamastus Estate's Elida Falda.
The first whiff reveals candied ginger and warm spices like nutmeg. As the coffee cools, its character transforms: Bright citrus notes emerge, reminiscent of pomelo, while a gentle umami suggests fine green tea, and sweet, honey-like undertones bloom in the finish.
This sublime complexity helps explain why Geisha has become the crown jewel of Tokyo’s flourishing specialty coffee scene.
Refined coffee experiences are increasingly common in Japan, the world's third-largest coffee consumer and fifth-largest importer. Led by growing demand, specialty coffee now accounts for 10% of the market, with establishments like Geshary Coffee in Tokyo's Hibiya neighborhood helping position this rare coffee as an accessible luxury.
"In the past five years, coffee drinkers have become much more knowledgeable," says Kazuki Togashi, general manager at Geshary, the world's first cafe dedicated exclusively to Geisha varieties. "When we first opened the cafe in 2019, some customers expected to see geisha performers making coffee."
Japan's embrace of Geisha coffee reflects a broader sophistication among consumers. Over the past decade, specialty cafes have proliferated across Tokyo, from the eastern neighborhoods along the Sumida River that comprise the city's "coffee town" to the skyscraper district of Shinjuku. At Geshary, baristas tell coffee's complete story — from cultivation to cup — across the cafe’s four floors while featuring a rotating selection of 10 single-origin Geisha varieties from Central and South American producers.
Operating as both importers and roasters, Geshary cultivates direct relationships with premium producers across Latin America. They've even established their own farm, Hacienda Copey, in Costa Rica.
Each cup comes with detailed tasting notes and information about producers and processing techniques. The remarkable diversity of Geisha becomes apparent through a tasting of three varieties: Hacienda Copey's Washed COE-W4 reveals delicate white flower aromas and gentle cashew notes, while Panama's offerings range from the full-bodied citrus character of a Janson Natural latte to the vibrant red berry and hibiscus notes of Deborah Special Interstellar.
Coffee roots
The coffee variety known as Geisha — or Gesha, after the region in Ethiopia where it was discovered in the 1930s — traveled a long path before capturing Japan's imagination. British colonial explorers brought these trees to Costa Rica, but the variety remained relatively unknown until 2004, when a Geisha coffee from Panama's Hacienda La Esmeralda sold for a then record-breaking auction price of $46.30 per kilogram following its success at the Best of Panama competition. The coffee's extraordinary floral notes and sweetness stunned judges, launching a global sensation.
"Geisha is grown in several countries, but it's most closely associated with Panama," Togashi says, explaining how the volcanic soils and cool misty climate of the Chiriqui highlands create ideal conditions for cultivating this delicate variety. This unique terroir helped Lamastus Estate’s Elida Geisha Honey Aguacatillo set a new auction record of $13,518 per kilogram in September.
Geisha’s refined character particularly appeals to Japanese consumers, says Taka Ishitani, award-winning barista and co-founder of Ash in Tokyo’s Shibuya district.
"Japanese people have a deep appreciation for subtle, intricate flavors,” Ishitani says. “When someone first tries Geisha, they often ask, 'Is this really coffee?' because its profile is so different — more like fine perfume or white wine."
"Japan has been very important for us," Wiford Lamastus Jr., fourth-generation coffee producer and co-owner of Lamastus Estates, told me when I visited the company's Elida farm earlier this year. "Japanese buyers were among the first to start coming to Panama, and their willingness to pay for premium coffee has helped raise its market value."
Such interest has helped spark a new vision for Panama's Chiriqui highlands. While the country has long drawn visitors to its capital's UNESCO sites and Caribbean beaches, both producers and tourism officials are now courting a different kind of traveler: the coffee connoisseur.
"We want to show that Panama has so much more to offer than the canal," says Jorge Chanis, organizer of Panama’s annual La Cosecha coffee festival.
La Cosecha aims to promote the region's fledgling coffee tourism industry by connecting visitors with Panama's most distinguished producers, including Lamastus Estate, Garrido and Don Benjie. At this year's intimate gathering in Boquete, I partook in what organizers describe as the "coffee ritual," where specialty coffee was presented in a bespoke ceramic vessel atop a base that symbolizes the topography of the region. Paired with bites like sweet-and-spicy chile rellenos, filled with banana crumble in honey meringue, prepared by acclaimed chef Debora Fadul of Diaca in Guatemala, the brews brought out unexpected flavor combinations.
At Lamastus Estate, Wilford Lamastus led me through the forest-encircled coffee plantation and mill, describing how the terroir, harvesting methods and processing techniques affect the flavor of the final product. The tour concluded in the tasting room, where 12 small bowls of coffee awaited for a professional coffee tasting, known as cupping. The session began as Lamastus poured hot water over the freshly ground beans, waiting for a crust to form on the surface. I followed his lead, breaking through the crust with two spoons to release the aromas, then drawing the coffee sharply across my palate — a technique that revealed flavors ranging from ginger and orange flower to strawberry and passionfruit.
On the ground
While nothing quite matches tasting Geisha at its source, Tokyo’s specialist cafes are working to recreate that magic.
At Leaves Coffee Roasters, a commitment to Geisha's complexity demands meticulous attention at every step. Head roaster and barista Yasu Ishii monitors batches on the vintage 1950s German Probat roaster, a machine he chose specifically for its ability to enhance the coffee's natural sweetness. Before brewing, he carefully removes any defective beans and measures precise 16-gram portions. Even the pouring technique is calculated — keeping the kettle close to the dripper to prevent over-compacting the grounds.
"It's not just about the technical aspects," says Ishitani. "When you're serving coffee at these prices, you need to share the producer's story (and) help customers understand the craft behind each cup."
This educational approach reflects a growing awareness in Japan's coffee culture: Premium prices enable producers to invest in quality and ensure their farms remain sustainable for future generations.
As Geisha continues to captivate Japanese coffee lovers, producers and roasters are exploring new frontiers. Togashi of Geshary sees growing interest in experimental styles fermented with fruit and wine yeasts — expressive brews that tend to exhibit vivid flavors like raspberry and tropical fruits.
"In the past seven years, many baristas have been using special-category fermented beans at competitions, and they're getting more popular with consumers," he says.
However, Miho Hariu, brand manager of Leaves Coffee Roasters, shares a different perspective.
"Those full-flavored styles are easy to understand but can be overwhelming,” she says. “I think classic coffee is making a comeback. At Leaves, we focus more on the terroir and the natural flavors that can come from how the coffee is grown."
For Ishii, though, the future of Geisha — or any coffee — comes down to something simpler.
"The conversation, the human connection during coffee time — that will always be what matters most.”
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