It doesn’t take long for word to spread in Tokyo whenever a good new Indian restaurant opens — especially one that’s as well put together as Gond. Launched with minimal fanfare, this May arrival just down the hill from Ochanomizu Station has already staked its place on the map.

From the bold paintwork in striking shades of red and turquoise to the cheerful but measured demeanor of the chefs in the open kitchen, you can tell straight away that Gond has a personality to match its extensive and eclectic menu, which spans the subcontinent. No surprise, then, to find that customers are already making their way there in droves from well beyond the immediate catchment area.

But there’s another reason — part bitter, part sweet — why the news has filtered out so fast: Gond is part of the same group behind the wonderful Dhaba India in the Kyobashi district, which from its inception two decades ago immediately became one of the city’s most popular Indian restaurants.