Burger Police: It’s an arresting name for a restaurant, but there’s a lot more to like about this excellent new arrival than just its catchy moniker.

First of all, it’s a proper restaurant, not just a burger counter that happens to have seating. You can make a reservation, order at your table and linger over craft beer or natural wine. With its designer logo, large picture window and simple modern furnishings, it looks and functions like a chic little bistro.

And that’s exactly as you’d expect from the offspring of one of Tokyo’s best-rated (and hardest to book) restaurants, Tacubo in Daikanyama. Chef Daisuke Takubo's fame and Michelin star were initially garnered for his Italian cuisine, but it’s his firewood-grilled wagyu steaks that now form the centerpiece of his menu.