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A new restaurant taking its earliest baby steps. A young chef, as yet unknown, but already with an impressive resume under his belt. And an extensive tasting menu spanning a dozen dishes of considerable complexity.

The venue: Elan, in Harajuku’s revamped Gyre building. The chef: Ryoma Shida, lately of the elegant, always excellent Esquisse in Ginza. The occasion: Shida’s very first dinners in his own restaurant. Needless to say, as the hors d’oeuvres begin to arrive, expectations are running high, albeit spiked with a certain tension.

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