Somtum Der is unlike any other Thai restaurant in the city. It's not just the look, though the bold red facade certainly stands out in the drab Yoyogi backstreets, and the chic, bright interior reflects a contemporary sensibility, not one rooted in the cliches of tradition.
What really sets this new arrival apart is that it serves and celebrates the distinctive cuisine of Isan, the arid, less-developed northeast of Thailand. So the focus is not on the tried-and-true standards of the lush Thai heartland — coconut-rich curries, pad Thai rice noodles, spicy-sour soups and the like. Instead, the house special is som tum.
This sweet-sour-spicy salad of shredded green papaya is hardly the most obvious choice for a signature dish. The fiery flavors launch a full-on assault on your palate, no matter how much the chilies are toned down. It's not a recipe for faint hearts or sensitive palates.