Ginza. It’s where you go for classy cake shops, high-end sushi and some of Japan’s priciest cuisine. But surely not for vegan cauliflower fritters and spelt risotto, or porcini-rubbed steaks and truffled arancini (rice balls)? Absolutely, thanks to the newest branch of the laid-back — and still lower-case — Bills.

With the opening of its fourth Tokyo location (seventh in Japan), this burgeoning group of casual dining restaurants fronted by Australian chef Bill Granger has moved firmly into the mainstream. Swapping the beachfront for swish downtown digs, the new location boasts a long, gleaming bar and plush banquette seating. But the menu remains the same, featuring the colorful Mediterranean-meets-Sydney cuisine that has made Granger’s name.

At dinner, a standout starter is the pan-fried gnocchi served with crisp shards of parsnip and grated celeriac. Equally impressive is the shrimp burger with jalapeno mayonnaise, vivid red daikon radish on the side and gochujang (Korean hot-pepper paste).

But the best thing about this Bills is that it’s open early for its classic ricotta pancakes and creamy scrambled eggs. And there’s nowhere else in the area to get a full Aussie breakfast of eggs, toast, bacon, sausage, roast tomato and mushrooms.

Okura House 12F, 2-6-12 Ginza, Chuo-ku, Tokyo; 03-5524-1900; Open 8.30 a.m.- 10 p.m. (L.O.), drinks until 10:30 p.m. (L.O.); nearest station: Ginza; no smoking; major credit cards accepted; English menu; English spoken. For more details, visit bills-jp.net/en/ginza.

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