When eclectic indie film distributor Uplink moved across Shibuya to its current location, it did more than add extra screening rooms. It created a cultural hot spot, a meeting place for people looking beyond the mainstream. From the start, the focus for that was its restaurant, Tabela.

Eleven years later, its laid-back style, funky furnishings and righteous, Middle Eastern-inflected menu feel just as comfortable as ever. Slide behind a well-patinated table or, if you're with friends, into one of three semi-private booths modeled after European train compartments. Then start with an order of mezze appetizers (five for ¥1,550; three for ¥930). Stay in North Africa mode with couscous — the vegetarian version (¥1,400) is so good they serve it at lunch for ¥1,000.

At Tabela the rice is brown, much of the tea is fair trade, the desserts are earnest rather than elegant, and the service is friendly and thoughtful if occasionally ragged. The three-table terrace space is also a great place to hang in the cool of the Shibuya night — feel free to bring your dog — just as long as you don't mind the traffic noise and wafting cigarette smoke.