To get to Hale you’ll have to wrestle your way past the armies of tourists and locals who converge on Nishiki Market — a long, narrow market that sells everything from adzuki beans to unagi (eel).

But once inside this cozy cafe in an old machiya (townhouse), you will find much of the food is suitable for vegetarians. Tofu, or byproducts of tofu, form the backbone to the menu, especially yuba, the gossamer-like skin of tofu.

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