January is a delicious time for local seafood, as fish naturally fatten up to survive in icy waters. A visit to Tsukiji fish market in Tokyo's Chuo Ward will give you a first-hand view of winter seasonal seafood, as well as a chance to savor it in the area's restaurants. Here's a guide on what to look for and where to eat at the world's largest seafood market — before it changes location to Toyosu in Koto Ward sometime in the next couple of years.
Start your morning at the recently opened Turret Coffee (2-12-6 Tsukiji, Chuo-ku; 03-6264-1883). Barista Kiyoshi Kawasaki, formerly of Streamer Coffee Company, serves espresso in colorful ochoko (sake cups). Or get a latte to go and keep your hands warm while perusing the market.
Start by exploring the many stalls of the outer market, Jogai Ichiba, that sell essential staples for the Japanese kitchen, such as konbu (kelp), tea and nori. Katsuobushi (dried bonito shavings) specialty store Akiyama Shouten (4-14-16 Tsukiji, Chuo-ku; 03-3541-2724; www.akiyamashouten.com) sells kezuri-ki, the tool used for preparing your own katsuobushi shavings. The shop will adjust the plane in the wooden box according to your ability to shave the hard filets of smoked and dried skipjack tuna. Katsuobushi flakes adds a rich, smoky note when sprinkled over tofu or steamed greens.