They may be unloved and unwanted, but even their detractors would have to admit that Japan's crows are tough, resilient critters. It is, then, entirely appropriate that the oldest castle in Japan should be named after these intimidating birds. The Japanese of yore had quite a fondness for naming their castles after creatures, and thus it is that Himeji Castle -- by general consensus the most elegant fortress in the country -- is named White Heron Castle because of its perceived resemblance to the dignified bird. Bearing the sobriquet of Karasu-jo (Crow Castle), the castle of Matsumoto is, as you might suppose, not a dainty little thing.

For most visitors, Matsumoto Castle is the main reason for making the trek to this city in the center of Nagano Prefecture. With the Japan Alps as its spectacular backdrop, Matsumoto's most celebrated feature does make for quite a sight -- solemnly majestic in its Puritan colors of black with a little white trim. Where the White Heron Castle carries a light architectural grace, Crow Castle is a bull-necked, businesslike bastion.

Karasu-jo dates from 1504, when the walls and moat were constructed, and it was completed in 1597. Despite having been built during turbulent times, it was fortunate never to have been involved in any military action. Though made to withstand the onslaught of attacking armies, today the castle faces tourist hordes, who put up with the long delays at the bottom of its steep stairs as they wait for shuffling feet above to clear out of the way.