There has always been a friendly rivalry between Napa and Sonoma, California's two premier wine-growing regions. We think of Napa as Kyoto -- containing stunning vistas, but marred by a tour-bus mentality. To paraphrase Gertrude Stein, we sometimes feel "there's no there there." Sonoma, on the other hand, is similar to Nara -- replete with beauty, but on a more genuine, human scale.

We've previously discussed the secrets of southern Sonoma (see The Japan Times, Sept. 19), but the jewel in Sonoma County's crown undoubtedly lies in the north, in the bucolic town of Healdsburg.

Established in 1867, Healdsburg's founders laid out the town around a central, Spanish-style plaza that remains unchanged to this day, although the original redwood saplings are now approaching 40 meters in height.