As quick as popping a cork, it seemed, three weeks ago I was on a Brussels-to-Paris high-speed Thalys train, savoring visions of France's picturesque Champagne region.

For weeks I'd wanted to visit the fine old Boizel Champagne house in Epernay in the heart of Champagne, 120 km northeast of Paris. Fingers crossed, I'd rung Boizel Aug. 21 and luckily found Evelyne Roques-Boizel, the business director, just back from a vacation with her husband Christophe, a scientist and wine man from a family of distinguished academics.

I arrived in Epernay Aug. 23, and the next day my Boizel initiation began with Christophe's tour of top vineyards growing the chardonnay, pinot noir and pinot muniere grapes -- the "Champagne region trio" -- followed by a visit to Boizel's remarkable cellars tunneled into the bank of Mount Bernon in 1886. Boizel was founded by Auguste Boizel in 1834 as a smaller winery producing world-class connoisseur champagne, its enduring profile.