Kabukicho: the land of quick fixes, whether they be edible, audible, watchable . . . Just about any -able is doable in this hallowed den of iniquity.

Many a Fuzzy Logic tale of debauched madness has emerged from these stinky gangster-'n' whore-infested streets, but tonight we're playing it pretty straight and -- in the first of a two-part series on this Shinjuku district -- we're taking a bunch of pals to two of this column's favorite venues.

First up is Loft, which vies with Shimokitazawa Shelter as Tokyo's most famous livehouse. Well, it did, when it was a dirty toilet venue on the west side of Shinjuku Station. But that was knocked down for a car park or something, and this plusher, slightly bigger version came into being, tucked in a basement just behind Liquid Room. Celebrating the third anniversary of its rebirth this month, Loft is hosting special shows topped off by a minifestival April 29 with Thee Michelle Gun Elephant, King Brothers and about 10 other bands. You might have to bribe a kid for a ticket for this one, or beat him up, but it's well worth risking a brief jail term for.