VLADIVOSTOK, Russia -- If you ever chance to fly in the wintertime to the disputed Northern Territories -- a cluster of volcanic islets claimed by both Russia and Japan, and known as the southern Kuril Islands to Russians -- be prepared to be stranded.
Any time from October to May, your pilot will dump his passengers and load up a mob of departing citizens and hastily fly off while he has the chance. It might be a while before you see a plane again. Poor weather could keep him from returning for weeks.
During your stay in the city of Kurilsk, the lights might black out for 16 hours a day. Even when blizzards howl outside, the town frequently has no hot or cold water, no heat and no telephone service. On some days the Iturup Hotel's menu consists solely of hot dogs and boiled barley -- breakfast, lunch and dinner. Upon hearing there is an outsider in town, locals may drop by the hotel to share a bottle of vodka with you.