If you grow up mostly in Tokyo like I did, there are so many regional Japanese dishes you only encounter only after you become an adult. One of my favorite of these late discoveries is from Yamagata Prefecture: a curiously named fresh vegetable relish called dashi.
Throughout most of Japan, “dashi” is the word for soup stock, the umami-rich broth that is the basis for so many savory dishes. In Yamagata, “dashi” also means this dish of finely chopped summer vegetables and herbs. There are various theories as to how the Yamagata dish came to be named this way — one holds that, just like dashi stock, the relish enhances the flavors of whatever it’s served with. Another theory is that the vegetables are kiridasu — “kiri” for cut up and “dasu” corresponding to dashi. Yet another explanation goes that it’s easy to very quickly make and serve (another meaning of “dasu”).
This, at least, is for sure: Almost every household in Yamagata has their own dashi recipe. The standard elements are fresh cucumber and eggplant since the dish most likely got its start as a way for farmers to consume excess vegetables quickly. Soy sauce, mentsuyu (soy sauce with dashi stock added), as well as aromatic summertime vegetables and herbs such as shiso (perilla) leaves, myōga (ginger) buds and ginger root also feature here. A type of green chili pepper called ao-nanban is often used in Yamagata, but any green chili pepper will do the trick if you can’t get your hands on this regional specialty.
I have become quite addicted to spicy, crunchy and refreshing Yamagata dashi over the past few summers. It goes so well with all kinds of base foods — both traditional options like plain rice, tofu or cold sōmen noodles, and more modern choices like buttered pasta, or steamed or grilled fish. If you enjoy a cold beer at the end of the day, try nibbling on some dashi as a small appetizer.
A final note: If well covered, this dish will keep for two to three days in the refrigerator. It may turn a little dark in color, but that won’t affect the flavor.
Serves 4 to 8
Prep time: 25 minutes
Cook time: 5 minutes
Ingredients:
- 1 large or 2 small cucumbers
- 1 large or 2 small eggplants
- ½ teaspoon salt
- 5 okra pods
- 1 myōga bud
- 1 small piece fresh ginger
- 1 small onion
- 2 to 3 green chili peppers
- 4 or 5 green shiso leaves
- 3 tablespoons concentrated mentsuyu
- ½ tablespoon soy sauce
- 10 grams katsuobushi (dried bonito flakes)
Directions:
- Slice the cucumbers in half, scoop out any seeds, then finely dice them along with your eggplant. Mix the veggies with the salt and set aside for five minutes. Drain off the moisture that comes out of the vegetables
- Boil the okra for two minutes and drain well.
- Mince the myōga buds, green chili peppers, ginger and onion. Shred the shiso leaves and chop the okra finely.
- Put the diced cucumber and eggplant into a large bowl with the ingredients from Step 2. Add the mentsuyu, soy sauce and katsuobushi. Mix well until the sliminess of the okra coats the other ingredients. Serve immediately over your preferred accompaniment: for example, cold tofu, chilled sōmen, hot rice or nattō (fermented soybeans).
With your current subscription plan you can comment on stories. However, before writing your first comment, please create a display name in the Profile section of your subscriber account page.