Sometimes it feels like Japan’s food trends turn on a dime.

For several years, bubble tea chains reigned supreme, with lines stretching around the block, until they were already passe. Korean-style cheese dogs had their moment. Earlier this year, it seemed that pulled pork would finally get its due. The pandemic, of course, threw all predictions into chaos, leading to a surge in takeout options, even from some of the capital’s most exclusive restaurants. In many kitchens, rice cookers and bread makers were harnessed to push the bounds of home cooking.

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