There were cheers and fears in equal measure this spring when Nobuhiro Kakinoki announced he would soon be leaving Kotaro, the brilliant super-izakaya in Shibuya, after nine years as chef Kotaro Hayashi’s right-hand man. Pleasure, because it was high time for him to strike out on his own. Concern, because it seemed to be the very worst time to do so.
No need to have worried: Kakinoki — known to all simply as Nobu-san — has done more than survive. Shoto Lamp, the excellent one-counter tavern he’s set up on the far side of Shibuya, has thrived since its opening in June. And that’s really no surprise: all the essential elements are in his favor.
First, he’s moved into auspicious premises, the erstwhile site of Bacar, the insanely hard-to-book bistro helmed by Shunsuke Ishii (now chef at his own Sincere). Second, he’s teamed up with another fine chef, Takayuki Shiraishi, formerly of Eatrip in Harajuku. With the two of them sharing kitchen duties, the food at Lamp is first-rate, as is the excellent sake that Nobu-san has always served.