Ninety minutes west by train from central Tokyo, Mitake is still within city limits, but feels a world away. The morning train I catch is full of seniors and students outfitted for climbing Mount Mitake, with poles, waterproof boots and backpacks. My goal, however, is not at the summit but at the base of the mountain: Kajikaen, a century-old ryokan (Japanese-style inn) near the Tama River.
Though Kajikaen closed for business in 2017 due to overwhelming demands on its aging owner Akira Usami, I have heard that he is assiduously maintaining the property itself and has applied to the government for its heritage status.
