People often ask what kind of glasses are best for enjoying sake. But, like so many things in the sake world, the answer is complicated. My shelves are crammed with dozens of sake vessels — from dainty, thimble-sized cups, to rough-surfaced ceramic tumblers and pieces of crystal stemware.

Traditional ochoko are small sake cups that typically hold only a few mouthfuls of the beverage, a design feature intended to encourage social interaction through frequent refilling by one's companions. Ochoko are made from a variety of materials, all of which affect the overall experience of the drink, and my choice varies depending on the situation.

Though porcelain versions are the most common, at the height of summer, I prefer sipping cold sake from cooling, transparent glass vessels. And, in the chilly winter months, I often opt to serve warmed sake in hefty pewter cups that can better hold the heat. Another option — cups made from hinoki (Japanese cypress) — imparts a subtle woody aroma and can complement the earthy, forest floor notes found in certain brews.