Sometimes you want simple. Sometimes you feel like hunkering down with no-frills, no-fuss food that fills and comforts. Sometimes you need a quick, restorative visit to Kagawa Ippuku in Kanda.

As the name indicates, Ippuku has pedigree. The main restaurant in Shikoku's Kagawa Prefecture is one of the most popular noodle shops in a region that prides itself on eating more (and better) udon than anywhere else in the country. Kagawa is still often referred to by its feudal name, Sanuki, and so is the style of wheat noodles produced there.

When Ippuku launched its Tokyo outpost in the summer of 2015, it did so to some acclaim. In part, this was because it's always special to find excellent noodles made in the true Sanuki style. They have to have exactly the right texture, smooth but with a firm chewiness.