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A few years ago I was warned off torisashi (chicken sashimi) by a friend who, after eating it on a night out in Osaka, spent the following week in a very bad way. So when a dish containing thin slices of raw chicken breast arrived at our table I contemplated it with apprehension. However, I was warned that I would be missing out by not digging in. Peer pressure won out.

I’m glad it did: Torisee Takoyakushi specializes in chicken dishes, and the usu tsukuri is as delicious as it is different. Chicken is such a ubiquitous meat that it’s nice to savor it served in an unusual format: it is succulent and light, a worthy appetizer. The skin is blanched so there’s no need to worry about ill effects of eating the chicken raw.

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