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Authentic British food is hard to come by in Japan, and the food at the theme-pub chains isn’t often great. However, there are a handful of expat-run places that get it right — and should hit the spot for homesick Brits.

Having heard encouraging things about Warrior Celt (3F 6-9-22 Ueno, Taito-ku, Tokyo; (03) 3836-8588; www.warriorcelt.jp), I headed out there with a British friend. We’d hardly made a dent in our bottles of Bishop’s Finger when she announced that she was “really moved” by the cheese platter: a very, very tangy, crumbly vintage farmhouse cheddar, a rich, creamy blue, and something called Oxford Isis that had a profound, uh, aroma. Also on the menu: homemade sausages (seasoned deliciously with sage and thyme), scotch eggs and, occasionally, haggis.

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