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As soon as the rains lift and the temperatures rise, our thoughts turn to Vietnam. It’s the food we crave: No other cuisine seems quite as appetizing once the sweltering summer sets in.

Not that we want to actually head off to Southeast Asia. In terms of climate, that would be like fleeing from frying pan to fire. But we’re always ready to travel the extra mile in search of good Vietnamese cooking. And that’s just as well, since some of the best in Tokyo is at My-Le, all the way down in Kamata on the southernmost city limits.

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