Season's greetings as the Year of the Snake, 2001, prepares to slither in. By this time of year, some of us have eaten so much turkey in so many guises that we'd gladly throttle the next bird we see and pray for a fowl-free New Year. Banish the thought! Before you curse the very mention of roast fowl, be it turkey, chicken, goose, duck or whatever, consider how wine with innovative white-meat and dark-meat dishes can brighten your palate, and your day.

Today my focus is an original dish ideal with turkey dark-meat, although beef, bear, bison, venison or ostrich might do. I recommend hefty chunks of dark-meat turkey, turkey legs, or turkey cut for osso buco.

Turkey, America's national bird in commercial terms, lends itself to more culinary artistry than you can shake a drumstick at. With intolerable immodesty I submit this recipe -- Stewed Dark-Meat Turkey a la Barrager,