Something happened to the face of the Greek car rental man when we mentioned that we'd come to Zakynthos to see loggerhead sea turtles. His easy smile slipped.
"These turtles caused many problems," he scowled. Then, with effort, he brightened, adding gallantly, "But if they have brought you here then I'm grateful."
We paid up and drove off with a volley of backfires that would have shamed a dysenteric elephant. It was clear not only that we had just been rented the most overpriced, clapped out junker on Zakynthos, but also that turtles were controversial.