It may not be on the typical tourist itineraries, and its name may sound almost like a home appliance, but Hita is a lovely town. It sprawls between two highland rivers in a lush valley at the back of Oita Prefecture, surrounded by forests and fruit trees. Hita is just 70 minutes from Fukuoka, and easily within reach of Yufuin's or Aso's hot springs. But if you think you're heading there for a pit stop only, be warned: You may stay longer than you think.

Along with its pretty natural setting, Hita boasts one of Kyushu's real retro townscapes: Mameda-machi, the town's former core, just 15 minutes' walk from the railway station. Here you'll find beautifully restored Edo Period buildings, shops, gnarled old trees and the curved bamboo gutter covers often associated with Kyoto.

The town's prosperity dates from the days when Hita was a shogunal fief, under direct control of the Edo government. The city's cosmopolitan outlook attracted so much trade that Hita's merchants became enormously wealthy, often more so than the samurai or daimyo of nearby locales.

Bridges, roads and irrigation sprang up in Hita. Culture flourished, from festivals to tea ceremony and even a school of Confucian philosophy. One of Hita's most famous sons, newscaster Tetsuya Chikushi, returns regularly to lecture at institutions here. Hita certainly prides itself on being cultured.

Today, you can wander around Mameda-machi in Hita and see where soy sauce and miso were once made and sold, medicines traded and money loaned. You don't need a map -- the back streets are fun just to wander around in. Old and new shops sell everything from Indonesian wood chimes to traditional Japanese sweets, and some of the private buildings are fun, too. One rickety three-story clinic, taller than it is wide, looks like a miniature belfry. Instead of bats, you can just make out the shapes of elderly patients waiting inside.

If Nipponesque knick-knacks and homemade pickles don't grab you, dig in your purse anyway for one of the best buys here: wooden geta sandals. They're made from the fine cedar found in the hills surrounding Hita and come in sizes to fit virtually anyone, from newborn baby to 5-meter giant. Colors range from cute to as chic as you could hope for. Hita is one of Japan's largest geta producers, and it would be hard to find a better selection anywhere else.

On the banks of the Kagetsu River is Kuncho Shuzo, a small sake brewery filled with the lingering scent of 300 years of sake-making. Drop by to taste some -- especially if you like sweeter types of sake. Five minutes' walk away are two of Hita's loveliest old homes, Kusano House and Hirose Museum. Both are worth seeing for their immaculately restored interiors, dainty gardens and displays that provide a glimpse of life during the Edo Period.

Slightly apart from the pleasant bustle of Mameda-machi, and my favorite for this reason, is the Kangien Confucian school. A small delicate wooden structure surrounded by tall trees, the school is elevated slightly off the ground. In the sweltering heat of a Kyushu summer you can stand on its shady veranda, positioned perfectly to catch the cross breeze, and feel utterly refreshed.

Every March, Mameda-machi comes to life with thousands of people flocking to see the Hina doll displays. These dolls, an important part of Japan's Girls' Festival traditions, are usually associated with the noble courts, but in Hita they were much more elaborate among the wealthy merchants than the often impoverished members of the samurai class.

Hina dolls are a typical sight in Japan each March, but they aren't for play. The dolls, arranged in seven tiers with the princess and prince at the top of a miniature empire of faithful retainers and worldly goods, traditionally embody parents' wishes for their daughters' futures. They have long been believed to possess special powers, and may once have been mere paper cutouts representing images of human impurity. Today they are largely decorative, but even so, require special treatment. Throwing out an old or broken doll is no simple matter; a ceremony must be held to ensure the doll's spirit departs safely.

Other towns in northern Kyushu well known for their Hina doll displays include Yanagawa, a town on the Ariake Sea crisscrossed with canals and dotted with traditional warehouses; and Yoshii, another historic town between Hita and Kurume that has recently become somewhat of an artist's enclave.

Join the Hina festival crowds on weekends and be jostled and herded to places you didn't know existed; all in a festive mood, of course. Alternatively, go on a weekday, and the dolls, peace and eateries are all yours. Special JR deals to Hita should help alleviate traffic-induced stress. When you arrive, rent a bicycle from JR Hita Station; you'll be able to navigate the town's sights and quaint back streets more easily than any car could do.

Hita has many good places to eat -- try the charming Sodansho Shimaya in Mameda-machi for a delicious, country-style dango-jiru set meal. It has a very pretty Japanese garden at the back. Owner Ishimaru-san is the head of a Hita renaissance group, and is always happy to chat about the area. On the other side of town along the Mikuma River, a row of hot springs await with steaming spas and wide river views. In summer, the sun sets over the center of the river. Another good reason to go to Hita . . .