People in the food industry look to Foodex to find out how best to cater to their Japanese and foreign customers. What they see at Makuhari Messe are often more fantasy than fact, things that might be exported to Japan if the proper arrangements can be made. And that's what the foreigners are there for, representatives from some 56 countries with products selected hopefully to please the discriminating taste of the Japanese public. "Everything" is an expansive word, but it seems an appropriate one to describe the extent of the products on display. Think of the world's best wines, designer meats, ethnic specialties from all over the world (the U.S. will introduce American Indian cuisine under its great regional cooking theme), exotic fruit, calorie-conscious/health-oriented gourmet specialties and, of course, much more.

In addition to all the foreign selections, Japanese producers also show their finest, and it can be mind-expanding. I was especially intrigued with the tremendous variety of my-old-country-home nabe pots and soba bowls that could be filled from little packages of ready simmered and tastily blended ingredients that can be created in moments. Presentation of products, especially those for traditional foods and how they should be served, should provide a good lesson in Japanese aesthetics for foreign manufacturers. They will also learn to appreciate the beauty of wasabi as well as the sharp taste it provides with sashimi. And then there is sake, a monstrous mountain of bottles comprising brands from all over the nation. And while looking is fun, it is better if you can have a taste. Here, as with the foreign exhibitors, at most of the displays, you can.

Perhaps I should not promise so much. That's how it was when I visited Foodex last year. If we follow traditional patterns, things get bigger and better with each year, so it's worth taking a chance. Foodex, which opened March 9, is an exhibit for the trade. However, on the last day, March 12, they are more tolerant of attendees. The cost of a ticket is 5,000 yen, a good investment for anyone interest in learning about foods and their marketing in Japan. Opening time is 10 a.m. I'd suggest you go early since things will be winding down for the 4:30 p.m. closure. You may be asked for a name card, so have one with you. It's a formality.

Why is it so well attended? We are talking about a market of some $650 billion as counted at the cash registers of the retail sales and food service industries. Even a tiny fraction of that amount could give a company accountability.

A reader's question will bring a sad answer for many who have lived here long enough to remember, and a pang to those who will never know. He asks where he can find a book written by a popular columnist who once wrote for The Japan Times, Don Maloney. His book, "It's Not All Raw Fish," has been a best seller for years. Don explored Japan with good humor; whatever he touched turned to laughter. His first contribution to The Japan Times was a letter to Readers in Council. He had just read one of the frequently published cost of living lists. While Japan was among the top contenders in all price categories, it was well down the list for taxis and home appliances. Since his family was always pushed to the limits of his budget, he wrote that he had reached a decision. They would move out of their expensive apartment (apartments were at the top of the list) and live in a taxi. For entertainment, they would watch their bargain washing machine instead of TV (very pricey then), and so it went.

It wasn't long before Don was writing a regular Sunday column. Inevitably a book followed, and later, a sequel, "Son of Raw Fish." Now that era has ended. The book is out of print and there are no plans to reprint it. Don's stories are timeless and it is sad to realize that some of you will never know how beneficial his approach to living in Japan could be. If the disappointment is too great, you can contact our highly recommended dealer in used books. He has made some amazing finds for me, and he can for you as well. You could use the Internet, but you would miss the personal touch you will get from Hoshio Books, fax (0274) 87-3128.