Travel | BACKSTREET STORIES Oct 5, 2018

Banking on the riverside alleyways of Komagata

Venerated establishments and new shops putting their own spin on traditional food and craft exist side by side in Tokyo's aquatic Komagata neighborhood.

Travel | BACKSTREET STORIES Aug 3, 2018

Rocking the hot stuff in weathered Narihira

Although the Tokyo neighborhood of Narihira is slowly shifting toward a younger demographic, a postwar vibe still lingers in its back alleys and keeps its community close-knit.

Travel | BACKSTREET STORIES Jul 6, 2018

History is woven into the very fabric of Ome

Ome has a long history of high-quality textile production, and today's designers are trying to preserve old fabrics and techniques while still giving them a contemporary update.

Travel | BACKSTREET STORIES Jun 1, 2018

A small slice of Showa Era life, preserved in Ome

Ome brings "Showa Retro" to life with vintage movie posters, goods and trains.

Travel | BACKSTREET STORIES May 11, 2018

Slow-paced Izu Oshima is anything but sleepy

A mere Jetfoil away from Tokyo, travelers to Izu Oshima island can expect volcanic hikes, fresh local cuisine and an abundance of hospitality.

Travel | BACKSTREET STORIES Apr 6, 2018

Swordplay and samurai in Tokyo's Maruyamacho district

Traditional businesses are heating up in Shibuya's old geisha quarter.

Lifestyle Mar 4, 2018

Traditional arts live through kids

Nurturing respect for cultural traditions is a daunting challenge these days, when kids are glued to cellphones and game apps. So what does a country with centuries of carefully polished artistry do to preserve its heritage? Drop a curtain on the whole show? Not ...

Travel | BACKSTREET STORIES Feb 2, 2018

On the hunt for Gaien Nishi-dori's taste-makers

In Tokyo, people set up funky cafes with all kinds of sideshows — curry, cats, goats, hedgehogs and maids come to mind — so when I catch a whiff of a good cup of joe escaping from a huge glass and concrete box near ...

Travel | BACKSTREET STORIES Dec 8, 2017

Warming to Sugamo's venerable shopping street

Gifting, and therefore shopping for gifts, seems part of the gestalt of winter. In Tokyo, though, retail wonderlands tend to be packed and pricey, full of ersatz Christmas music, harried customers and long lines. I opt instead for a low-key commercial street near Sugamo ...

Travel | BACKSTREET STORIES Nov 3, 2017

Changing times in Setagaya's Shoin Jinjamae

There's something alluring about the suburban stops between Sangenjaya and Shimotakaido stations, which has been serviced by the Tokyu Setagaya tramway for the past 110 years. Low-rise buildings and modest platforms tick by as the tram trundles at a leisurely pace westward from where I ...