The shadowy backstreet that parallels the west bank of the Sumida River, between the Umaya and Komagata bridges, has always struck me as woefully underrealized.

Two venerable dining establishments — the freshwater loach specialists at Komakata Dozeu and the grilled eel experts at Maekawa — have for centuries denoted the area’s aquatic proximity, but a smattering of new guesthouses and hotels appearing in the Komagata district suggests an area in transition.

Unable to view this article?

This could be due to a conflict with your ad-blocking or security software.

Please add japantimes.co.jp and piano.io to your list of allowed sites.

If this does not resolve the issue or you are unable to add the domains to your allowlist, please see out this support page.

We humbly apologize for the inconvenience.

In a time of both misinformation and too much information, quality journalism is more crucial than ever.
By subscribing, you can help us get the story right.