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Tokyo’s clear skies and piercing sunshine can make even the frostiest of winter walks surprisingly pleasant. Knowing this, I get off the Tokyu Oimachi Line at Togoshi-koen Station, thinking to track down the park for which it is named.

The morning is windy and ice-bright as I head northwest. Eight minutes into my walk through residential backstreets, I realize that I haven’t encountered a single living soul. Eight minutes of nobody in Tokyo is worth comment. I wonder if the cold has kept everyone inside.

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