Sugamo Station

There are four basic options to choose from: ramen or tsukemen — that’s soba or tsukesoba, in their terminology — in either a shio (salt) or shōyu (soy sauce) soup. Quality and flavor are paramount here. The noodles are stone-ground from four kinds of ...

It is with the fourth course that you find yourself in the middle of the Mongolian heartland -- in culinary terms, that is. Changsanmaha is, apparently, the be-all and end-all of the local cuisine, served in every ger in the Gobi and beyond. It ...