Can a basic noodle counter founded a mere seven years ago and barely big enough to seat 12 truly qualify as a legend? In the case of Rokurinsha, most definitely yes — in fact twice over. First things first: The ramen really is outstanding. It’s ...

The top-of-the-line item is Shokkan's self-described "famous seafood paella." This is cooked in a wide earthenware donabe casserole, and comes laden with generous amounts of salmon and its roe, clams, mussels and small, pink sakura-ebi shrimps. Just as you'd get in Spain, the rice ...

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